Cross Country for Crabcakes, Episode Two: In Which Two Hungry Foodie Geeks Seek Out Breakfast

In our last episode, I regaled y'all with the tale of day one of our pilgrimage to Lexi's favorite seafood restaurant in the entire universe. The next morning, we woke up ravenous, and went in search of something yummy for breakfast.

Initially we wanted to try the venerable Florida Avenue Grill, renowned for its history and reputation as the "oldest soul food restaurant in the world". Sadly, they're closed Mondays, so we searched the neighborhood for another possibility. Just a few blocks away, past ramshackle vining roses and lines of brick row houses in varying states of benign neglect, we stumbled upon the Blind Dog Cafe at Darnell's.

Delicious breakfast goodness located at 944 Florida Street, Washington, DC

The blind dog for which the cafe was named wasn't there (every dog has his day off, right?), but yummy breakfast sandwiches and hot coffee certainly were. Usually the Blind Dog's breakfast sandwiches are served on croissants, but that day their toaster was out, so they used crusty French bread instead.

Bacon & Goat Cheese (foreground), House Roasted Pepper Pimento Cheese (background)

Lexi had the House Roasted Pepper Pimento Cheese while I had the Bacon and Goat Cheese. Both come with a fluffy egg frittata snug in the middle. Lexi's was gooey and cheesy, with plenty of roasted red peppers lending a sweet-roasted-spicy flavor. The bacon on mine was thick and meaty, well-balanced by the creamy pungency of the goat cheese. The French bread worked well: it was sturdy enough to hold up to the sloppiness of the sandwich ingredients, but also had a nice soft middle. I actually suspect either sandwich on a croissant might have been too greasy, but as they were, they were a great start to the day.

For most of the rest of the day, Lexi and I tooled around DC, checking out all kinds of stuff in and around the National Mall. In the Smithsonian National Museum of American History we came across this:

Oyster plates from the mid-19th century

Humans have been eating oysters for millennia, from China to Rome to the Americas. Always readily available to anyone dwelling reasonably close to a coastline, with the advent of refrigeration oysters could be transported further inland. In America the demand for them traveled westward with human expansion; the plates above once graced a wealthy diner's table. Note the cockle-shaped depressions, presumably to hold a little butter or mayonnaise for dipping.

After awhile, Lexi headed off to catch up on a bit of work, while I tooled around some more, visiting the Washington Monument, Lincoln Memorial, Vietnam Memorial, and all sorts of places in between. After a few hours our stomachs rumbled again, so with a few text messages and a short trek to the Penn Quarter, I ended up at Poste brasserie, where Lexi had set up shop.

A game of Fluxx, a DC tourist map, and a glass of chilled wine to start the evening

Next to the Hotel Monaco, Poste is tucked away in an open courtyard inside a warm stone bastion of a building. The courtyard itself is lovely: the building surrounding it is deep, its walls thick, so the courtyard itself is very quiet, despite being in the middle of an intensely busy city. Inside, the yard is ringed with containers and raised beds full of all kinds of culinary plants grown by the head chef, ranging from seasonal fresh herbs to veggies to figs and more. While we were there, the courtyard itself was set aside for a reserve party; perched at our window seats at the bar, Lexi and I could watch as the staff and chefs assembled what must have been one of their Poste Roasts, though we weren't there long enough to find out for sure. And at any rate we were too busy enjoying a nosh of our own.

The feast: saffron mussels, salted buttery rolls, pommes frites

I'm a bit ashamed to say that I don't remember what the wine was, since I was too busy eating the food. All I recall is that it was anything other than a chardonnay (since I utterly loathe chardonnay), it was chilled and white and went well with the salty meaty saffrony things we were eating. See below.

French bread slices and buttery salted rolls

Mussels in white wine with saffron and mustard

Mollusks don't stand a chance against Gwen's appetite

Being from the Pacific Northwest I've had plenty of mussels prepared plenty of ways, but I'd never had them with saffron before. The mussels were as meaty as I expected, and the mustard/saffron combination not only provided color but also stood up to the heartiness of the mussels' flavor. I'd definitely have mussels this way again. As for the pommes frites, they were good, though not outstanding; after so much rich food it was hard to finish them.

Nonetheless we left quite satisfied, with full bellies and happy taste buds. We trundled back off to our hotel for a good night's rest, looking forward to another day of culinary adventures....

STAY TUNED FOR THE NEXT INSTALLMENT OF CROSS COUNTRY FOR CRABCAKES, IN WHICH GWEN & LEXI TACKLE DC LUNCH ON A HOT DAY

How to Make a Glass of Sparkling Chilled Awesome in 30 Seconds

Step 1: Put some ice in a glass.

Step 2: Pour in about 3 fingers of rose-flavored syrup. (I used Torani, but there are others out there.)

Step 3: Fill the glass with chilled San Pellegrino Arranciata.

Step 4: Stir.

Step 5: Sip orange-rose sparkling deliciousness!!

Arranciata + Rose = AWESOME

Cross Country for Crabcakes, Episode One: The Saga Begins

WE WENT TO BALTIMORE, Y'ALL!

Way back in May of 2012, Lexi took me on a cross-country trip to Baltimore and DC to visit her very favorite seafood restaurant in the whole of everywhere. The trip was a decade in the making, and was so full of fun, fury, and food that it's taken until now to do a write-up about it. (I'm still having dreams about casts of blue crabs coated in Old Bay, swimming in butter and beer... mmmmm.....)

Part of Lexi's motive for the trip was to compare East Coast vs. West Coast seafoods. Both of us were raised in the shadow of Mt. Rainier on the gray rocky shores of Puget Sound. Its cold, salty waters yield up a massive bounty of delicious things to eat - foods that are not simply part of our diet, but have been part of our lives as locals.

Hunting and harvesting seafood are more than just fun activities, they're full-blown events that we've taken part in since we were kids: trips to the coast to dig for razor clams in January, putting out the crab pots during Dungeness season in the summer, grilling oysters and steaming mussels a yard from the beach where they were collected, all of these things and more form fond memories for both of us. (One of the most useful skills my dad taught me was how to shuck an oyster.) That doesn't even start to touch on the other culinary delights found in and around the greater Puget Sound area, brought by the influx of cultures from all around the Pacific Rim: salmon caught and smoked by indigenous people, fish stews and soups from Korea and Thailand, a gazillion kinds of sushi, Chinese fish hot pots, even the fish tacos that wandered up from the coast of California... you love seafood? We got it.

We got it... but West Coast style seafood ain't the same as East Coast style. I knew this, but Lexi (having traveled considerably more than I have) had actually experienced it. So to broaden my tastes, she took me eastward. The destination: Baltimore (and areas surrounding), where her favorite restaurant in the world is located: Anne Arundel Seafood.

This is the story of how we got there, and all the yummy things we ate on the way.

Day One
I hate flying. It doesn't frighten me or freak me out, it's just kind of uncomfortable, being stuffed into an aluminum can with a bunch of often grumpy strangers in narrow seats with no leg room, too much dry air, and not enough in the way of little creature comforts to make the whole thing a bit more bearable.

Fortunately, at the time we took the trip, Lexi had been traveling a lot for business, and had amassed enough frequent flyer points to get us upgrades into First Class. (SWEET.) The cabin steward was friendly, the seats were wide enough (and comfy), and at least some of the drinks were free. We played Ticket to Ride and chilled out for 5 hours, landing uneventfully in Washington, DC, as evening fell.

Thank you, friendly cabin steward, for the stiffest Bloody Mary to be found at 35,000 feet.

Of course we landed hungry, so after collecting our bags and rental car, and checking into our hotel in DC, we set out with Lexi at the wheel to find some late-night noshies.

Just off Dupont Circle, we found Kramerbooks & Afterwords Cafe.

Books & booze at Kramerbooks & Afterwords Cafe

It's a used bookstore. With a bar. And a late-night cafe. Perfect for two hungry geeks on the prowl for something yummy. We ordered drinks - Lexi got the Stormy Weather, I got a Dark & Stormy. The rum was just right and they made it with a basil garnish, which was a nice touch. Then of course we dove right into the seafood.

East Coast crab cake appetizer with remoulade

First up was a round of mini East Coast crab cakes, made with lump crab and served with a remoulade. I'm a stickler about my crab cakes: I judge them in large part by how much crab there is to how much "cake" - that is, how much of it is actually crab meat, and how much is filler or binder? Some time before this trip, I'd joined Lexi on a short jaunt to Cape Cod, where she spoiled me and our hosts with a round of thick, delicious Maryland-style cakes from one of her favorite restaurants. I recalled those creamy, piping hot roasted cakes so full of crab they barely held together, and wondered: could Kramerbooks' cakes compare?

I'm happy to say that Kramerbooks' crab cakes were more crab than cake. Fried in butter rather than roasted, they had a rich, crisp exterior. Compared to the sweet-fleshed Dungeness of my home state, the blue crab in these cakes was less sweet and considerably meatier, well-balanced by the sweet-sour taste of the remoulade.

Mussels steamed with shallots, garlic, white wine, butter, basil

Next, we tried the steamed mussels. The preparation was pretty traditional: steamed in white wine with butter, shallots, garlic, and fresh basil. One of the reasons I wanted to try them was because of the fact that shellfish can taste radically different from one location to another, even when they're the same species. (I've noted this with local oysters in particular, which can vary in taste depending on waves, weather, content of the water, season of the year, and so on, even when harvested from the same beach.) These were blue mussels, farmed locally, the same species we eat on summer beach trips here in Puget Sound, so while the basic flavors were very similar, the brackish, slightly muddier local waters imparted a sweeter taste with less of an iodine note than mussels from the waters at home. Quite delicious, meaty and sweet as only mussels are, and the fresh basil added a nice almost floral touch.

Catfish fingers with Cajun spices & Cajun remoulade

Then it was on to the fried catfish fingers. Catfish isn't something we get very often back home, since it's not a local delicacy; it's much more something we used to eat when visiting my Southern relatives. To me it always has a slightly muddy taste, a bit like river water - perhaps not surprising, since catfish are river-dwelling bottom feeders. Nonetheless, they're delicious. As I recall, the catfish fingers were pretty good, but a bit greasy despite being cooked in olive oil (rather than, say, deep fried in lard). I kind of expected the cornflake crust to be crispier than it was.

This is how I ended the evening:

Original Sin Cherry Tree Hard Cider

Yup, at the bottom of a pint mug of Cherry Tree Hard Cider from Original Sin. Even under the sallow yellow light of a sodium street lamp, this cider was a lovely, clear red. Made with heirloom apples and tart cherries, it was like a tart apple-cherry pie, crisp and fruity, just sweet enough and just sour enough. Delightfully, while the flavors of a traditional apple cider were strong, the cherries were just as bold, and they actually tasted like real cherries, not like some fake weird cherry syrup. Yum!

I don't even remember if we had dessert. I just remember that, after a long day of travel, it was great to sit outside on a semi-warm East Coast evening, under a warming heat lamp, eating the first of many fishy dishes to come. Kramerbooks comes highly recommended by the FeastyGeeks, if ever you're in DC.

Next time: Day Two, in Which Two Hungry Foodie Geeks Seek Out Breakfast